Thx for uploading this video, to me it clearly demonstrates the value of the CTX, because the tone you are getting is not a clear dig tone.
If there is anything i have learned after est. 250 search hours with the CTX is that you should not waste your time on signals of doubt.
hi interesting video, are you using FE tones?
Ferrous-Coin, Combined, Open screen.Originally Posted by Tombs
True but I almost walked by a good target on Sunday. Granted the tones were strong and clear, but it only went high tone from North/South of the target. East/West was iron tones with no chirp. I dug it because the high tones did not move and pinpointed in the same spot. It was the 1952 Silver Quarter.
Had you have pinpointed the target using 1 pixel width line of iron discrim then sweep the target again you would have got a broken signal, hence not a digger.
The above is just the opinion of Flossyrockstar and not of anyone he is associated with. This post may contain diatribe of a contentious and sesquipedalian nature. Terms and conditions apply, may contain nuts, always read the label.
I don't even have CTX but that looks like a classic "Halo" effect to me , every detector suffers one way or another from it.
try conductive 50 tones with a tadpole and long or normal tones, i find it much easier to get hi conductors.
I wouldn't use normal tones as they blank at the end of the signal and thats what your looking for to signify iron.
The above is just the opinion of Flossyrockstar and not of anyone he is associated with. This post may contain diatribe of a contentious and sesquipedalian nature. Terms and conditions apply, may contain nuts, always read the label.
thats true but a signal from a high conductor will give a diferant signal....... im not sure how to say it , its kind of rounded, i was talking to Gorden the other day and he was saying the same thing, in fact i have a video of me digging a 12" penny and i recorded how it sounded before i dug it, im using pitch hold, i have since started using long.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9sfD...yer_detailpage
Long for me too. Combined. In highly mineralised ground(12-13 suggested by auto) ground coin /auto works far better than maxing out in manual what a lot of experts advocate.
This machine ISNT an Etrac... you dont need full whack,open screen..in bad ground.
But i will be told otherwise by the experts.
i dont think you can say that auto works better its more preference and what works best for your brain, maxing out does give more signals which dose mean more targets but thats no good if your not understanding them , personally i run maxed out although i do flick to auto to test signals and they are always weaker thats why i run manual
Nothing to do with my brain.. Its the machines brain... as i said experts will say other wise.
I know what settings are putting finds in my pocket and what settings arent, simple realy.
This is with stock coil on 12/13 auto suggested .With small coil i go open screen and manual sens set as high as i can get away with.
Thats because smaller coil is far more capable of handling very bad ground as it sees less of it.
The signals you talk about are falses and ground chatter not nice little roman and saxon coins.
If you had asked me last week I would have agreed with the auto theory but having tried both auto and maxed out on some heavily mineralised ground at Corfe I can safely say that Auto just doesnt achieve anywhere near the same results.
Saying that there are times and places where it still achieves fantastic results
Yes but were you using ground coin or ferous coin?
Makes a lot of difference to me .
i wasnt trying to be offensive but i have used ground coin and ferrous coin manual and auto on heavily contaminated ground and i was checking signals in diferant settings manual gives more signals and they are not falses i dug at least 300 targets 40 of them where roman coins/artifacts or medieval and i only lost about 5 signals which was down to my lack of ability not anything to do with the ctx.
I know you werent trying to be offensive.
Im just not getting the same results as you.
So what was the suggested sens settings out of interest?
it was between 13 and 15 normally 14 though.
i do know shep was struggling with manual falsing but i think he sorted it.
what did you do shep?
Ok maybe I'm a bit confused but, when you say your ground is highly mineralized at 12-13....is the lower the number the more mineralized it is? On the Garrett AT-Pro it's higher. Out of 1-99 the AT-Pro ground balances here in my parks between 82-95. We have alot of black sand in the soil and beaches. On the CTX3030 when I run automatic the screen is usually around 15/18. Yesterday in another part of a park I was getting 12/15 which is pretty low.
When I try running auto +1 to +3 I get alot of falsing from the tons of rusty nails here. I have not tried manual at all, should I?
Also I always ground balance, this is habit from the Garrett AT-Pro and Fisher CZ-3D. Should I even bother turning GB on at all? I like running ferrous-coin/combined/open screen, but I'm wondering if I should try your 50CO and long tones. I tried 50CO last week in ferrous-coin and big iron was really going HIGH tone on open screen.
Also I'm wondering if ground-coin is only for really really bad ground?? or would it work in my black sand environment.
well first off scrap ground balancing that is as you say just for REALLY bad ground. the numbers we are giving are what the ctx recommends the sensitivity to be set to, so if that's low that means the ground is highly mineralized.
with 50CO tones its very hard to hunt in an open screen for high conductors because they have the same tone as iron but if you put a small amount of discrimination in the bottom right hand corner and use long or normal tones after a bit of practice you will be able to dig some really deep high conductors.
Really good discussion here guys.....I'm learning a lot
Dave
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks